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Getting EDGEucated:
The "75k Mile List"
The E36 3-Series (1992-1999, including M)
Edition
After
years of working on BMW's, we have begun to see common problems and maintenance
concerns that need to be addressed on nearly every middle-aged BMW. E36 3-series
cars, like all BMWs, they have certain areas that need to be inspected
regularly, and prospective owners should always have a pre-purchase inspection
done to verify the condition of these items.
In this list, you will find items that should have been replaced or at least
inspected by 75k-100k miles. Some are model specific, and will be noted as
such.
If you suspect you may have some of these issues, or just want us to take a
look for your peace of mind, call us at 925.479.0797 to
schedule an appointment!
Areas of Concern:
Lower Control Arm Bushing Failure
Common symptoms for torn or cracked lower
control arm bushings are undesired front toe changes during cornering, vague
and rubbery feel in the steering, and vibration experienced while braking at
freeway speeds. Non-M bushings are commonly replaced with M3 bushings to
increase performance with little to no change in comfort.
Tie Rod Wear
Symtoms include: steering shimmy, clunking
during steering input and inability to hold proper alignment. If any of the
ball joint boots is cracked (you'll see grease coming out) then expect that
component to need replacement. All components should also be checked for
excessive play, and replaced if out of BMW spec.
Worn or Blown Shocks and Struts
Factory BMW shocks work great for about 30k. By
60k they are completely shot. Most folks who have been driving their cars since
new hardly notice the deterioration as it is gradual. Symptoms include:Diving
under braking and acceleration, excessive lean and suspension compression
during cornering. Bouncy and uncomfortable ride. Shocks and struts may visibly
leak shock oil. EDGE generally recommends replacing the factory units with
quality shocks from Koni whenever possible. When replacing shocks and struts,
keep in mind it is a great time to install lowering springs or freshen up other
areas of the suspension. You will be amazed at the difference a good set of
shocks can make in both comfort and performance!
Worn or Failed Swaybar Endlinks
Worn swaybar endlinks can compromise handling. A
worn swaybar can sound like a metallic clicking noise. There is no critical
danger in a failed swaybar endlink, but the handling of the car is severely
compromised.
Torn Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTABs)
If the rear of the car feels strange during
cornering or you have excessive rear tire wear, expect that your RTABs are
shot. Typical mileage for the E36 is around 40-50k. Failure to replace could
lead to torn subframe and costly repairs. EDGE recommends replacement with
factory units and RTAB limiting shims. The shims prevent excessive movement and
can double the life of the bushing.
Torn Rear Shock Mounts
Torn or destroyed
rear shock mounts will produce a very pronounced clunk during any sort
of suspension movement, and could possibly just tear right through the
trunk carpeting into the passenger cabin. Sloppy and erratic handling
and excessive rear suspension play are common symptoms of a RSM
failure.
Torn Subframe and Subframe Bushings
Torn subframe
bushings could lead to subframe failure. Common symptoms of subframe
failure are erratic handling and unidentified clunks and bangs from the
rear of the car. Early detection of a torn or cracked subframe bushing
can prevent costly subframe repair and welding. Non-M 3-series cars
do not have the subframe reinforcements built in, and thus tend to tear
the mounting areas--even street cars! This situation can be remedied
with the installation of the M3 reinforcement kit.
 
Torn or Cracked Transmission Mounts
Torn transmission
mounts could lead to the dreaded 'money shift,' or mechanical overrev
and the possible (and likely) destruction of the car's motor. Worn
transmission mounts allow for an excess amount of transmission
movement. Symptoms can be hard, notchy and forced shifting during
cornering, excessive shifter jerk during hard acceleration and braking,
and muddy shifter feel.
Stock replacements are just "OK" --we recommend that stronger aftermarket units.
Ripped or Failed Guibo
A torn guibo (Flex
Disc) will result in a perceivable 'drivetrain elasticity.'
Acceleration will be preceded with a loud clunk as the guibo bolts bind
together.
Water Pump Failure
Water
pump failure is without a doubt the easiest way to cause extensive and
expensive damage to your BMW. The main symptom will be a rapidly
overheating motor. What occurs is that the bearing or impeller on the
stock pump, breaks, completely disabling the cooling system. If you
ever see the temperature gauge on your BMW climb above the 3/4 mark,
TURN THE CAR OFF IMMEDIATELY AND CALL A TOW
TRUCK!!
We
can't stress this enough. Failure to catch the overheating motor in
time can result in a warped head or even more severe engine damage. We
recommend changing out the waterpump in six cylinder cars every 60-80k.
Cracked Radiator Necks
BMW loves their
plastic radiator tanks....Unfortunately...The plastic around the
radiator necks become brittle and crack with age, often without warning
(see warning above.) Radiators should be thought of as 80-100k mile wear items. Trust us, this is cheap insurance!!
Cracked and Failed Thermostat Housings
6cyl.
Only. The factory thermostat housing can eventually crack causing
cooling system failure. Replacement with an aluminum housing, or
replacing with the new composite units every 60k or so will prevent
problems. We also recommend replacing the thermostat while the housing
is off.
All
S50/52 and M50/52 thermostats should be replaced at the same interval.
Sometimes they fail in the Open position (car runs cold, and you are
lucky) sometimes in the Closed position (car gets hot and you need to
pull over and call the tow truck).
Fan Clutch Failure
Most fan clutches
fail between 80 and 100k miles. They provide the primary cooling for
your car, and are easy for us to diagnose. If the car is hot (just
drove it for a while) and you turn off the engine, you should feel a
decent amount of resistance when trying to turn the fan clutch. If
not, its toast.
Accessory Belt and Tensioner Failure
Worn tensioners and
idler pullies will sound like a squealing noise from the engine bay.
Belts should be inspected for cracks regularly. If a belt happens to
snap, the cooling system will fail as the water pump will cease to
operate. Power steering and the alternator will also fail to work.
Again, pull over and shut the car off immediately should you suspect a
belt failure or see the temperature gauge rise past the 3/4 mark.
Leaky Valve Cover Gasket
Prevalent on all
BMWs, a burning oil smell could indicate a leaky valve cover gasket. If
the condition continues unchecked, oil can seep into the spark plug
holes and damage the ignition coils, resulting in costly replacement.
Replacement of this inexpensive gasket is a good idea
when changing sparkplugs as the coilpacks will already be out.
O2 Sensor Failure
Poor mileage, poor
idle and flat spots in the power curve could be caused by bad O2
sensors. Even if your car isn't throwing a check engine light, they
may not be performing optimally. BMW recommends replacing the O2
sensors every 100k miles. Extended high-RPM running/racing and
high-performance chips may shorten the replacement cycle.
Funky Window Regulators and Motors
If the window in your car
jumps up and down, or if the one-touch feature doesn't work, you may
need a window regulator or motor. Unfortunately its hard to tell which
until the car is apart.
Clogged and Dirty Pollen Filter
If the flow of air
out of the air conditioning and heater system is not as strong as it
used to be, it strongly suggests the pollen microfilter of your car has
become dirty and clogged over time. A damp and musky smell can also
indicate a dirty filter. This is a service II replacement item.
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